Tokyo

Tokyo is truly a city like no other on the planet. And it’s one I find myself returning to (and daydreaming about) over and over. Whether you’re traveling lavishly or a balling on more of a budget, this is a city that truly needs to be seen to be believed.

If there’s one phrase I would use to describe Tokyo, it would be a “beautiful contradiction.” The city exists at the intersection of ultra-modern and ancient—and feels almost electrified with drama at every step. It’s a place where you’ll find all the latest street trends and cutting edge tech alongside traditional details that look straight out of a history book. This is a place where it’s not unusual to see a woman dressed in meticulous Geisha garb with the latest iPhone in hand, or where straight-off-the-Prada-runway heels get kicked off before a traditional tea ceremony.

I’ve compiled my jetsetter-approved tips and luxe tidbits on why Tokyo gets my passport stamp of approval. Read on.

Pro Tips

Travel like a pro.
Tokyo has two major airports, Narita (NRD) and Haneda (HND). And trust me, you’ll want to fly in and out of Haneda whenever possible. Haneda is only 13 miles from the center of the city and will take you about 40 minutes by car (a taxi will run you about $100, or ¥11,000). Public transit will take you approximately the same amount of time but for a fraction of the cost, if you’re willing to navigate (taxis in Tokyo come with literal white glove service and are infamously expensive, but well worth it if you ask me!). You can find nonstop flights from the US to both Narita and Haneda airports, but go with Haneda (to save time and spare the headache).

Tokyo faux pas
The Japanese culture is quite proper, and no one eats or drinks unless they’re seated in the appropriate setting. So, resist the urge to dive into your handmade fresh strawberry mochi until you’re back at your hotel room. Although the Japanese are nothing if not polite, there’s no quicker way to look like a tourist than eating on the go.

Be Quiet!

Culture Cliff’s Notes
Upon first glance, the Japanese may appear rather stoic, or come across as less-than-friendly. This is absolutely not the case… the culture is just a bit more reserved. Whenever I go to Tokyo, I almost immediately find myself naturally speaking softer and just generally adopting a more relaxed pace. The Japanese are highly detail oriented and take their time when it comes to service. From hotel check-in to wrapping your purchases or taking your dinner order, things may take a bit longer than you’re used to. Take it all in, relax, and save your rush for when you land back at LAX.

Where to Stay

Tokyo is full of some of the most amazing hotels in the world, but honestly, it’s hard to find a “bad” hotel at any price range. The Japanese take such pride in their cleanliness and presentation, and this definitely extends to hotels.

Insider tip: The Japanese government has pretty strict regulations on the amount of days per year a property can be rented out… so budget-friendly Airbnbs are super hard to come by (your best bet is definitely a hotel). Also your hotel concierge is a huge asset to utilize while planning your meals and reservations (which should be done in advance, ideally right when you book your trip).

Here are a few of my very favorites:

Aman Tokyo

This luxe “urban retreat” definitely makes up for a not-so-central Financial District location with sleek modern design and spectacular views. Definitely the most scenic and sprawling hotel in Tokyo!

The Peninsula Tokyo

Five star service, huge rooms, plus an amazing location right in the heart of Ginza (aka the Beverly Hills of Tokyo)... what more could you want?! Love their traditional Japanese breakfast… try it if you get the chance!

The Ritz-Carlton Tokyo

Located in Rippongi, this five star hotel is located in the top nine floors of the city’s second tallest building, so rest assured you’re going to get some amazing views—from Tokyo Tower to Mt. Fuji!

Palace Hotel

Gorgeous and scenic hotel located in the Marunouchi business district with beautiful views of the Imperial Palace’s gardens. One of Tokyo’s oldest hotels, its original 1961 construction was fully rebuilt in 2012.

What to Do

There is so much to see and do and take in while in Tokyo. But as an insider who’s been there (and done it ALL), here are the activities that always make my Tokyo bucket list.

This hipster, centrally located neighborhood puts the “scene” in “scenic.” It’s called the “Brooklyn of Tokyo” for good reason—it just has an effortlessly artsy vibe.
It’s all about the yen, baby. Consider this district the Beverly Hills of Tokyo. it’s the epitome of fashion, opulence, and style... so you know I’m a fan! It’s got all the usual suspects, like Louis, Chanel, Prada, Dover Street Market, etc. plus the most Michelin starred restaurants in all of Tokyo (Ginza Kojyu and Sushi Yoshitake, to name just a few). High end luxury not your bag? Check out Uniqlo’s flagship twelve story store and endless array of delicious back-alley ramen joints.
This insane digital art museum by teamLab BORDERLESS simply cannot be missed. You’ll want to dedicate at least three to four hours to wander around taking pictures and videos (so.much.grammable.content). All the installations are completely interactive and are divided into five separate “zones.” Go for the art, but stay for the music—think of it as electropop mixed with traditional Japanese folk on a heavy dose of edibles. Be sure to buy tickets in advance—they’re limited. And if you’re looking for a less-crowded time to go, try after 3:00 PM. Located in Odaiba, so it’s a little bit of a trek from central Tokyo, but trust me, this one is a gem.

Animal Cafes
Ok, I know it may sound a little “basic,” but especially if it’s your first time to Tokyo, you need to experience this dose of cuteness. From owls to miniature pigs and hedgehogs, whatever your favorite furry animal is, I can almost guarantee you that there’s a Tokyo cafe dedicated to it. Your Instagram followers will thank you.

 

 

 

Where to Eat

One of the best things about Tokyo is that literally *everything* is artisanally made and delicious (as in “OMG this is seriously the best [insert whatever you’re eating] I’ve ever had!”). Yes, there are some exclusive, expensive restaurants that you should absolutely visit if you have the means (more on that later). But in all honesty, I’ve found myself just as blown away by ramen you order in a stall as I have been by the ones that have a Michelin star. The department store food courts are also a great place to stop by because they offer a wide variety of quality Japanese fare all in one place!

Number Sugar Omotesando

With flavors like cinnamon tea, vanilla, raspberry, rum raisin & salt, these hand-made caramels are melt-in-your-mouth delicious. For ¥200 (aka roughly $1.80) a pop you can try them individually, but I always end up creating a box! They also offer great gift-wrapped boxes you can bring home as gifts. Your friends and loved ones can thank me later! 

Echire Maison du Beurre

When Japanese baking skills and french butter collide! No wonder their croissants sell out within 90 minutes of opening (even with a purchase limit of 6 per customer!). Don’t worry, the butter cookies and financiers are just as delicious… and buttery!

Mitsukoshi Ginza Food Hall

Located in the basement level of the Mitsukoshi department store, this expansive food hall offers a vast variety of Japanese food and dessert options. Aside from the meticulous displays and perfect packaging being a true feast for the eyes, this is a great place to go if you want to grab a bunch of different types of Japanese food at one go! But remember, this is NOT America and you cannot eat on the go! Resist digging in until you find the designated eating area (hint- usually hidden in the back corner) or get back to your hotel. 

Ginza Akebono

Did you really even go to Tokyo if you leave without trying some handmade mochi? This traditional mochi shop, located next to Manneken Waffle, is full of seasonal specials (like strawberry and chestnut) that you cannot leave Tokyo without experiencing. If you happen to go during the coveted strawberry season in spring, the fresh strawberry and whipped cream filled mochi is a true delight!

Sumibi Yakiniku Nakahara

Yakiniku believes that no two cuts of beef are the same and each is specially prepared to highlight it’s own unique texture, appearance and taste. Though the philosophy behind the food in strict, this restaurant could not be more of a laid-back breath of fresh air! So sit back, relax, and enjoy a cold brew from their selection of Japanese beer as your dinner is grilled to perfection right in front of you!

Ishibasi

This Michelin-starred establishment is regarded as the best Sukiyaki restaurant in the world. Whether you are a long time Sukiyaki aficionado or want to start your Sukiyaki experience at the top, their private tatami-style dining room is calling your name! (PS- If you’re wondering what Sukiyaki is, it’s a meat, typically beef, and vegetable dish that is slowly simmered in a shallow iron pot in a mixture of soy sauce, sugar, and mirin.)

Tomura

They say you know a restaurant is really good when it is adored by fellow chefs and Tomura is just that. This Kyo-cuisine gem from Kyoto focuses on simple cooking methods to highlight it’s seasonal ingredients. Reservations start at ¥7000 per person (roughly $64 USD) but beware there is a strict 1 month prior cancellation policy. 

Honmura An

Come for the uni soba, but try (and fall in love with) the chicken meatballs, homemade tofu, and other scrumptious Japanese bar foods. 

Ichiran Ramen

Place your order at the machine, grab your ticket, and your ramen is served in a stall. Though this seems very futuristic and impersonal, I guarantee you that you will be able to taste the love in your bowl of piping ramen and you will leave with the coziest of feels. This tiny establishment garners quite a crowd, try off hours to avoid a long queue.

Sushi Iwa

Sushi Iwa, owned by Chef Hisayoski, is relatively new to the scene, but it’s a perfect intro to high end Tokyo sushi. Both Iwa-san and his sous chef Shigeyuki Tsunoda speak some English, are super friendly, and welcoming to foreigners. It’s an intimate setting, with only 6 seats at the bar, and if you only splurge on one sushi experience, this should be it. If you go for the full omakase course, expect to pay about ¥22,000 (or $200) per person with drinks (which is truly still pretty reasonable considering the quality). If you’re a babe on a budget and looking for something a little lighter on both your bank account and stomach, try going for lunch and ordering the 10-piece (¥4,860) or 13-piece nigiri set (¥8,000). 

Sushi Saito

This tiny dining room in Tokyo’s Ark Hills district is unassuming, but inside you’ll find some of the best sushi in the world. This 3-Michelin starred restaurant is headed up by Chef Takashi Saito, who pays exquisite attention to things like texture, temperature, and flavor balance. It has only eight seats, so it’s absolutely critical to book well in advance. Its minimalist design features a sleek wooden bar and minimal, traditional Japanese decor. Lunch will run you between ¥5,500 and ¥17,000 ($50 to $150), while dinner can be ¥27,000 ($250) and up per person. 

Ukai Tei Omotosando

Teppanyaki (iron griddle)-  Hate to make this comparison, but imagine the highest caliber of Benihana being served aboard the Titanic ballroom… that is the immediate vibe I get every time I visit this Tokyo institution, and I love every second of it! Another opulent touch? Dessert and after-dinner drinks are enjoyed in a separate lounge… fancy!

Bill's

It’s a fact. At some point during your trip, you are going to have maxed out on sushi, udon, yakitori, and ramen (it happens to the best of us). This is when you simply must brave the super long line to get breakfast or brunch at Bill’s at Omotesando Harajuku. Insider tip: there are actually TWO lines at Bill’s… one to enter the restaurant and one to get your number in line. Wait times can be up to three (yes, three) hours, but the good news is that you’re in Harajuku (and literally the world’s most beautiful Starbucks is downstairs). And when you do get a seat, do NOT miss the Ricotta Pancakes with fresh banana and honeycomb butter (¥1,400). OMG. It is seriously worth the wait. The scrambled organic eggs and toast (¥1,200) are also to die for. 

Inakaya West

Definitely one of Tokyo’s most loved (and ‘grammable) restaurants, and it;s rare you won’t catch a quality celeb sighting here. This is definitely NOT your quiet night out. Inakaya calls itself a robatayaki, a country-style grill, but it’s not so much a restaurant as an interactive theater where you get to participate in the show by eating (and maybe even more importantly, drinking—they have an amazing selection of sake). With two locations in Roppongi (Inakaya East is located not far away), this is Japanese culture at it’s very best.  

SAVOY

When you think of Japanese fare, Neapolitan pizza probably isn’t the first thing that comes to your mind. But trust me when I say that this is some of the best pizza I’ve ever tasted outside of Italy, perhaps even dare I say, comparable. Maybe it has to do with Chef Tsubasa Tamaki’s obsession with sourcing ingredients—from the fine grained doppio zero flour, to the purest olive oil, and even the source of water used. SAVOY is one of my personal favorites, and is always on my list when I’m in town.

Qu’il Fait Bon

This is a chain of cafes that serve up coffee and the MOST amazing fruit tarts. Save room after dinner, or grab one on your way back from shopping (to enjoy in the hotel room… remember, eating on-the-go is a major faux pas in Japan). If it’s in season, get the strawberry tart. A slice will only run you about ¥700 ($8USD) so #treatyourself.

Take-Out from Lawson

Lawson is literally Tokyo’s version of a 7-Eleven, but even Anthony Bourdain was smitten with their egg salad sandwiches and tonkatsu (little fried chicken cutlets). Save up for a lavish dinner and grab lunch to go! You won’t be disappointed. 

Ivy Place

The Japanese love to brunch (but seriously, who doesn’t?). Another not-to-be-missed spot is Ivy Place. This rec is actually the most kid-friendly on my list. It’s located in Daikanyama and has amazing outdoor seating in the Garden Terrace if the weather is nice. This is also one of the very few restaurants in Tokyo that offers free coffee refills, so go ahead and get caffeinated. They also have the fluffiest pancakes ever. Right next door you’ll find an amazing bookstore called Tsusaya, which has great coffee table books and designer goods. It’s open as early as 7AM and its bar closes around 10PM. 

Where to Play

If you know me, you know I typically love a good party. But when I’m in Tokyo, my nightlife scene is definitely a bit more mellow (unless late night strolls to walk off food comas count?). For this, I have consulted some of my most trusted fellow Tokyo lovers and here are some must-stop places if you are looking to party:

Golden Gai

This area in the Shinjuku district is just a couple of blocks square, so it’s perfect for bar hopping. It’s home to a wide range of quirky drinking dens, ranging from traditional to themed (think trolls or bizarre hospital-themed uniforms). Oh, and obviously the promise of karaoke at all hours!

Gen Yamamoto

Located on a little side street of the Azabujuban district, this hidden gem offers a seriously legit seasonal cocktail tasting menu. With only about eight seats, it definitely requires an advance reservation, so check with your hotel concierge ASAP.

Ginza Music Bar

Run by music producer Shinichi Osawa, Ginza Music Bar boasts a collection of over 3,000 records, from classics to contemporary. The sound equipment is supposed to be incredible.

Robot Restaurant

Ok, this place is definitely v touristy, but something you should experience once. Get ready for major sensory overload… laser beams, strobe lights, and giant floats combine for what sounds a little like a bad acid trip. Insider tip: skip the offered meal, and just go for the experience.

Japan is pretty serious about its bar scene, but that doesn’t mean their clubs aren’t equally amazing. 1 OAK (Minato), Oath (Shibuya), and The Iron Fairies (Ginza) all come highly recommended from those in the know.