Shanghai

While I’ve been to Shanghai more times than I can count, each trip seems to offer a new and unique experience. Whether you’re visiting for the breathtaking views, the rich cultural history, the world class food, the incredible nightlife (or more likely, a combination of all of them!), Shanghai is bound to leave an indelible mark on your soul. 

With a population of over 24 million—three times the size of NYC—Shanghai is nothing if not diverse. Even if you’ve lived there your entire life (or visited as many times as I have), you truly could never see everything because the city is ever-evolving, ever-changing, and ever-growing. It’s such a multi-faceted city, and based on the vibe you’re seeking, you can experience the flavor of the city in a million and one different ways. And you’ll be constantly hungry for more.

Shanghai is one of my favorite cities on earth, but it’s a destination that can certainly seem overwhelming at first glance. To help you plan an unforgettable itinerary, here’s a list of my top spots in this unforgettable city. 

Pro Tips

Getting there
Shanghai’s major airport is Pudong International Airport (PVG) and it handles approximately 60% of the city’s air travel. But if at all possible, I highly recommend flying into Hongqiao International Airport (SHA). While it’s an older airport and has less state-of-the-art amenities, it’s considerably more convenient—just 10 miles west of the city center, versus Pudong, which is 28 miles. Hongqiao handles mostly Chinese domestic flights, but international flights do exist, so it’s definitely worth checking out.  

Pudong vs. Puxi
Shanghai is basically split into two sides—Pudong (East Bank) and Puxi (West Bank). For a first timer, Pudong may entice you with its array of fancy and familiar hotel chains like the Ritz-Carlton, Mandarin Oriental, and The Four Seasons. But I always recommend to friends that they stay in Puxi. Pudong is much more of a financial hub and is filled with sprawling establishments like the Shanghai Stock Exchange, the Shanghai Financial Center, and the Shanghai Expo. This translates to an even higher traffic volume, hoards of businessmen and -women, and all-around a less authentic experience. Puxi is much closer to all the charming neighborhoods, shops, restaurants, and nightlife—and you can always take a trip to Pudong to see the sights.

Getting around
I’ll be honest… Shanghai can be a difficult city to navigate for first timers. It moves quickly—both literally and figuratively—and there are literally millions of cyclists, motorcycles, and cars on the road. As a pedestrian, take note: just because you have a green light does not mean you should walk into the street… motorists do not always yield! So pay attention and stay alert (I remember the first time I almost got run over by a truck—but it’s kind of a rite of passage). Taxis are readily available, but they only speak Chinese, so I always recommend having someone at your hotel write down your intended address in Chinese and showing it to the driver. Oh, and be sure to download the Didi app, which is China’s version of Uber. Oh, and also keep in mind that traffic can be pretty bad in Shanghai, so always factor in extra time for your travels. There’s also a pretty robust metro system in Shanghai—but I must admit, I’ve never taken it.

Social media
It’s true. China does censor certain websites including Instagram, Twitter, Google, Gmail, and many of your favorite news and gossip sites, but there are many easy (and legal!) ways to get around it. You’ve probably heard of installing a VPN on your phone, but an even simpler workaround is to just never connect your phone to wifi and just use your data! Yep, it’s that easy. The roaming fees can get a bit costly, so just make sure you sign up for an international data plan or package with your carrier before your trip.

Where to Stay

There are literally thousands of hotel options in Shanghai, across all neighborhoods. Just do a little research to make sure you’re choosing one that’s right for you. To help narrow things down, here’s a list of my favorites:

The PuLi Hotel and Spa

Located in the Jing An district, the Puli Hotel and Spa is an oasis that seems miles away from the bustle of the city. Created to be China’s first “urban resort,” it’s right in the midst of the Shanghai action, but offers a serene, luxurious respite. Like many of Shanghai’s hotels, it has striking Chinese interiors like silk wall coverings and contemporary furniture. The rooms are very “zen” as well with a good mix of austere modern and traditional Chinese.
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The Capella Shanghai

The Capella is situated right in the heart of the French Concession. Unlike many of Shanghai’s hotels, it’s not a highrise, but sprawling classic Chinese lanehouse villas. It really nails the mix of old and new with its historical design sensibilities and luxe Chinoiserie accents. They have an amazing French bakery here called La  Boulangerie et Patisserie by Pierre Gagnaire (try the light and crispy homemade bread and pain au chocolat!). Their restaurant Le Comptoir has a Michelin star and serves up an amazing à la carte breakfast. 
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The Peninsula

I’ve never met a Peninsula Hotel I didn’t love, and Shanghai’s is no exception. This 5-star hotel is located right on The Bund at the promenade, and it is truly the epitome of Shanghai chic. They have an impressive spa and a massive heated pool, as well as the Michelin starred Sir Elly’s Restaurant, which specializes in modern European cuisine and has an amazing view of The Bund.
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The Shanghai EDITION

Also located near The Bund, The Shanghai EDITION offers laid-back, modern luxury with impeccable attention to details and a buzzy in-house social scene. They have two rooftop bars, which are an amazing destination for warm days and nights—the views (and drinks) are incredible. 
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The Langham

Located in Xintiandi, The Langham is dripping in the style of old Shanghai with all the modern trappings you’d want in a luxury hotel. It has beautiful views of the skyline and is walking distance to amazing bars, clubs, and restaurants. Their rooms are super spacious, have floor-to-ceiling windows, and all feature The Langham’s signature Blissful Beds (seriously, so comfortable).
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If hotels aren’t your thing or if you’re traveling in a larger group or entourage, check out the Airbnbs! You can generally find some great options (just remember that you won’t have the benefit of a concierge to help you translate!).

What to Do

A shopper's paradise
Shanghai is truly a shopper’s paradise. Often referred to as “the Paris of the East,” this bustling city has all the luxury brands you’re familiar with—plus so many more. Streets are lined with high-end labels, boisterous plazas, colorful open-air markets, glitzy malls, and trendy boutiques. 

One thing that’s unique about retail in Shanghai is their shopping centers and malls. To an American, this probably conjures up cheesy, small-town images, but these are a serious thing in Shanghai. Consider them more like “shopping hubs” than malls. My favorite one is IAPM, which is located near the PuLi Hotel. The first two floors have high end labels (Prada, Gucci, Miu Miu, Chloe, etc), the third floor has younger clothing and lifestyle brands (Zadig & Voltaire, Marimeko, Muji, etc) and the fourth floor has sports brands (Nike, Aigle, etc). What more could you want?

Some great standalone shops I adore:

 

Le Monde de SHC

Dedicated to serving the Shanghai chic and international fashionistas, this art deco-inspired boutique has amazing fashion, homegoods, and books from around the world.
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Tianzifang

Located in the French Concession on Taikang Road, this is a great place for local trinket shopping. 
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Buyer beware: Yatai Xinyang Fashion and Gift Market, otherwise known as APAC Plaza, is a fake / counterfeit designer market located underground Metro Line 2's Science & Technology Museum station. Browsing is fine, but I don’t recommend buying anything. It’s not worth it, and you’re bound to get ripped off. 

Fun shopping fact: more than half of the world's retail development resides in China, with 35 million square feet currently under construction in Shanghai alone!

 

Lay of the land
One of my very favorite things about Shanghai is its endless versatility. It’s truly a chameleon in terms of its unique offerings based on what neighborhood you visit and what “circle” you run in. You can be surrounded by American expats one minute, and the next, be rubbing shoulders with Shanghai’s crème de la crème. 

One thing to keep in mind about the city is that there are seven (very distinct) urban districts, or neighborhoods, and each offers its own take on Shanghai. It may seem overwhelming at first, but you’ll soon find your niche.

 

Nanshi

This is the old, walled Shanghai, and also called the “Southern City” thanks to its location. Walking through Nanshi is like stepping into the pages of a history book. Get a dose of Shanghai culture at the City God Temple, Old Town Bazaar, Yu Yuan Garden, and the Confucian Temple. 
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The Bund (aka Waitan)

The Bund is one of my favorite areas in Shanghai. It stretches one mile along the bank of the Huangpu River, and feels decidedly like London. And that’s not by mistake—historically, it was home to the city’s British settlement. Today the Bund is home to the city’s hottest restaurants, nightclubs, and hotels. 
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Huangpu

This is about as city-central as you can get—it’s basically downtown Shanghai. They have some amazing museums like the Shanghai Museum and Shanghai Natural History Museum, as well as the infamous People’s Square and the beautiful Grand Theater. 
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Pudong

Also known as the East Bank, Pudong is home to Shanghai’s largest international airport (PVG). Situated across from the Huangpu River from The Bund, Pudong is arguably the most well-known of Shanghai’s neighborhoods thanks to its “new money,” financial centers, and plethora of modern skyscrapers. 
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Tianzifang

This is definitely the “youngest” of all Shanghai neighborhoods. Tianzifang has transformed itself from legacy residential homes and factories into a super trendy area with tons of bars, cafes, design studios, galleries, and boutiques. It’s known for its zig-zagging alleyways, so this is a great place to get lost and stumble upon something amazing. 
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Xintiandi

This neighborhood is home to the “New Heaven and Earth” shopping center, an affluent dining and shopping area where you’ll find a ton of American expats. It’s a car-free zone, making it ideal for a stroll to cocktails on the terrace. Many of the shikumen (stone gate houses) have been refurbished and turned into hip, modern lifestyle spots. Tons of luxury shopping and international restaurants here. 
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The French Concession (aka Luwan)

Another one of my favorites! This is home to many of Shanghai’s higher-end restaurants, hotels, and boutiques—and has been one of the most prestigious neighborhoods in Shanghai history. As the name says, this was the former home of the French Consulate after the loss of the Opium Wars, so it’s brimming with leafy boulevards, boutique wine bars, European delis, and indie fashion shops. Dining options range from your typical soba noodle shop to tapas bars and French bistros.
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Where to Eat

Shanghai is a melting pot of so many different kinds of truly authentic cuisine. In addition to (obviously) some of the very best Chinese food you can ever hope to eat, it’s not difficult to find the best of whatever you’re in the mood for. From Italian and French to Vietnamese to Turkish, Shanghai truly has it all. Just be sure to book reservations ahead of time via your concierge… spots book up quickly and walk-in waits can be brutal.

Xin Rong Ji

This Michelin-starred restaurant has many locations throughout Shanghai, but The Bund location is my favorite. They specialize in Shanghainese, or Taizhou, cuisine in an elegant setting. The menu is rooted in seafood dishes, but their signature dishes also include baked duck foie gras buns with black truffle as well as Wagyu beef pot pies. 
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Old Jesse Restaurant (Lao Jishi)

For being one of the most legendary culinary institutions in Shanghai, you’ll be surprised at how small it is! It’s located in a cozy two story home, so tables are limited—and reservations are an absolute must. Old Jesse is a favorite amongst Chinese actors and entertainers, and it serves up all the most famous Shanghainese dishes—from Xintailuan (red dates stuffed with glutinous rice) to Hong Shao Rou (pork belly with soy sauce and hard boiled eggs—a Shanghainese classic), Hexia (sauteed river prawns), and Bia Ye (tofu knots). Their most famous dish, however, is a baked fish head with green onions. Just be sure to call and order this ahead of time because they always sell out.
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Yongfoo Elite

This Michelin-starred restaurant serves elevated traditional Ningbo cuisine (think lots of yummy stir-frying, deep frying, simmering, and steaming techniques). Some of their most famous dishes include Salted Qiang, or crab, which is pickled and then stir fried. Their wild tidal shrimp are also delicious. For first timers, Shanghai food can sound “weird” with unexpected and unfamiliar menu items. This is a great place to get out of your comfort zone and take a culinary risk—I can almost promise you’ll be pleasantly surprised.
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Imperial Treasure

This two Michelin-starred restaurant is my favorite dim sum in the entire world! You simply have to try their crispy Peking duck (it’s the best you can get outside of Beijing!). Also try the crispy pork belly, BBQ pork chashu, crispy chicken, fried tofu, and crab vermicelli. My mouth is literally watering just thinking about it. 
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Seventh Son Restaurant

Another amazing option for elevated yet traditional dim sum, this is a favorite haunt for Shanghai’s well-heeled. Located in the Pudong Shangri-La Hotel, their BBQ pork chashu, buttery chashu, and egg rolls are incredible. 
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Hot Pot Sun

Truly the most decadent hot pot you will ever have… it’s referred to as the “Hermes of hot pots” (I’m not even kidding). There are a few of these scattered throughout Shanghai, but the Xintiandi location is my favorite. This is a great spot for American visitors, because hot pot is such a unique and delicious way to eat, and it’s something that’s hard to come by back in the states. Basically, you choose a type of soup and what you’d like to cook in it. The waiter brings the soup in a pot with a special heater inside it to your table along with the ingredients you’ve chosen (meat, fish, veggies, etc). Then they cook inside the pot at your table. 
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And while we’re on the topic of hot pot, a few more delicious (yet less expensive) options include: Qimin Organic Hotpot Marketplace, Lao Wang, and Haidilao. You can go as authentic with your ingredients as you dare (pig intestines) or keep it American palate-friendly (chicken, pork, or shrimp). 

 

Din Tai Fung

If you’ve never had a xiao long bao, or soup dumpling, you are seriously missing out. And trust me, they just taste better here. Soup dumplings are to Shanghai what the chicken wing is to Buffalo. A delicate dumpling skin is wrapped around a juicy meat filling, and *magically* also contains a delicious burst of warm broth. Din Tai Fung isn’t much to look at from the outside (it’s located in a sterile-looking mall) but everyone you talk to will agree that they make the absolute best soup dumplings. And that’s not all they serve—try their soup, noodles, and vegetables. And be sure to order the pork chop with fried rice and the ma lai gao (steamed brown sugar cake) for dessert. 
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Other great soup dumpling options include Jia Jia Tang Bao, a hole-in-the-wall restaurant in Huangpu, and XiaoYang ShenJian, which specializes in pan-fried soup dumplings (greasy, hearty, and oh-so delicious).

Heritage by Madison

Famed Shanghai restaurateur Austin Hu grew up as a “third culture” kid, living in both Asia and the West, and his newest Shanghai restaurant brings influences from both. Heritage by Madison, located on The Bund,  brings a lighter side to Shanghainese comfort food. Try the Sourdough Rye mantou (a delicious western spin on steamed Chinese buns), General Tso’s cauliflower, candied bacon, and beef fat fries. 
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Ultraviolet

Ultraviolet is an avant-garde concept by famed chef Chef Paul Pieret, and it’s more than a restaurant—it’s an experience. This one-table “restaurant” seats only 10 and serves a 20 course meal. The space is literally transformed throughout the meal with lighting, projections, sounds, and scents—transporting diners from an abstract setting to an autumn forest to a rainy day in London. The meal, which includes drink pairings, isn’t cheap—dinner can range from $600 to $860 per person, depending on the night. But trust me when I say that if this is within your means, it’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Obviously seating is limited, so book as far in advance as possible.
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Villa Le Bec

This multi-concept restaurant by French celebrity chef Nicolas Le Bec occupies a century old villa in the heart of Shanghai on Xinhua-Lu. It’s consistently ranked as one of Shanghai’s top 25 restaurants and serves up delicious and un-fussy French food with Asian accents. Think handmade pates and charcuterie and bavette au poivre, and truffle pasta with parmesan, along with a robust French wine list. Villa Le Bec actually consists of three bistros for more casual dining, the Villa (with six different rooms to sit in), and the Garden, which serves drinks and small bites when the weather is warm (and even has some pet pigs roaming around!). I love their beef tartare, rib eye, mashed potatoes, and creamy truffle penne.
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Saigon Mama

This place serves up some of the pho-king best pho in the world (sorry, couldn’t help myself). I love this small, quick-serve Vietnamese eatery for a hearty bowl of soup. If you’re looking for a staple, try the “classic” with beef brisket, raw strips of beef, and beef balls. Their seafood pho is also amazing. Worth ordering on the side are their egg rolls, and don’t miss their Vietnamese drip ice coffee. 
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Lost Heaven

With locations on The Bund and in the French Concession, Lost Heaven serves traditional Yunnan (tribal Asian) folk cuisine in an amazing atmosphere. The owners scour Asia for authentic indigenous recipes and cooking techniques and add a dose of Western and Southeast Asian cuisine. Their Burmese Chicken, egg rolls, and Tea Leaf Salad are amazing. It’s a great option if you’re looking for something a little lighter. 
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Highline

It doesn’t get cooler than Highline: an austere interior meets the uber-stylish social scene of Shanghai. It’s located at the top of the Ascott Hotel in Huangpu, and (as the name suggests) it offers amazing views of the area. They serve elevated Western comfort food—perfect for when you need a “stick-to-your-ribs” taste of home. A menu highlight is their sweet potato fries with nori-parmesan with a side of Korean chili aioli. Be sure to save room for a slice of pumpkin pie—it’s my favorite. The s’mores are amazing as well. This is also a great spot to go just for drinks.
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I could seriously go on for days about the delicious food in Shanghai (can’t you tell?!), but a few other very honorable mentions go to:

Garlic
Amazing Turkish food! Try the Feraye Manti, traditional dumplings filled with minced meat and served with garlic yogurt and spicy butter.

RAC Coffee
A great spot for breakfast or lunch. I love their oat milk lattes, sweet and savory crepes (galettes), avocado toast, and breakfast sandwich options.

Green & Safe
A high-end, organic supermarket that’s also a cute cafe and restaurant. They have cakes and bread, and also offer free tastes (#win).

M on The Bund
Having been on The Bund for over 20 years, you know this place has to be good. A great place for a casual brunch or lunch (or a fuss-free dinner), and they also offer a cute afternoon tea. They recently created a fun “sharing menu” which lets you try a taste of everything.

Mercato
Located on the sixth floor of Three on The Bund, Mercato offers a posh (yet refreshingly unpretentious) menu and vibe. It’s a sharing-style Italian restaurant from Michelin starred chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. 

Hakkasan
I just really love Hakkasan restaurants, and this one truly does not disappoint. It offers modern Chinese cuisine. Everything on their menu (not surprisingly) is delicious and their drinks are next level. 

Luneurs Boulanger & Glacier
A stylish bakery specializing in sweet and savory pastries and a homemade ice cream shop? Sold. A perfect place for an afternoon snack or post-dinner treat. 

Baker & Spice
Located in the French Concession, Baker & Spice is a bit of an anomaly, but it’s amazing. They began as a bakery (their signature carrot cake is truly incredible), but they also offer healthy fare like salads and modern Asian dishes with Chinese, Vietnamese, and Thai influences. 

% Arabica
Amazing Shanghai roastery chain for when you need your caffeine fix. 

The Bund has my favorite collection of fine dining restaurants, a few of which include Joel Robouchon (French contemporary), Jean George (French with Asian influences), and Ginza Onodera (sushi). 

Where to Play

Shanghai is a city that never sleeps. Or at least it seems that way, because a lot of late night spots are open until 4:00 AM. Here are a few of my favorite places to play in this amazing city:

The Bund is one of my favorite places to grab a drink, and there are some amazing options here. Try Long Bar at the Waldorf Astoria for an evening cocktail, Edition Rooftop for casual, intimate drinks with an unbeatable view, and Mr. & Mrs. Bund, chef Paul Pairet’s chic, relaxed French / European eatery (a great place to go even for just dessert!).

Other favorite options include:

 

Beverly

Perched atop the infamous nightclub Le Baron, Beverly is a rooftop bar and lounge with a seriously ‘grammable pink mid-century vibe. It’s a perfect place to start the party before heading to the club downstairs. 
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Speak Low

This busy Japanese-style speakeasy is hidden behind a secret door in a bartending equipment shop. It spans four floors, each with its own concept. Getting a seat on the weekend without a reservation is difficult. 
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Nest

Good drinks, good design, good vibes. This restaurant / bar / lounge is located next to the Rockbund Art Museum, and has everything you need for a great night out. It has a super chill vibe with Indie music to start off the night, before it switches over to electronica. They have food, but I usually just go for the drinks. 
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Sober Company

This three-in-one concept is located on the corner of Yandang Lu and Nanchang Lu and features a cafe, kitchen, and bar / speakeasy (Sober Society) which is anything but, well… sober. Their craft cocktails focus on digestifs and brown spirits. This is a place Don Draper would certainly approve of. The prices are steep, but everything on the menu is exceptional.
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Taibei Chunk Party Party (aka Chunk)

After the club, the afterparty is always karaoke in Shanghai. Located on Taikang Lu and Ruijin Lu, this is my favorite spot for KTV (karaoke television… which is what the locals call it).They have an extensive drink menu (in case you need some liquid courage) and have a late night menu that has everything from sweet potato fries to beef noodle soup… and it stays open 24 hrs, so you can really sing to your heart’s desire. 
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Found 158

This Shanghainese mecca is actually a venue-packed complex for drinking, eating, and partying. Located on Julu Lu, it’s your one-stop shop for entertainment. Arkham and TAXX are located here, as is JZ Club, a cute jazz bar. Ballers is great for beer pong, and you can cap your night with pizza at Homeslice or or yummy street food options. 
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Beehive

This place is all the buzz in Shanghai. The look and feel for the club is centered around a (you guessed it) hexagon shape. The light design alone cost $250K, and clearly they're still paying off the bills… because drinks are expensive! Nevertheless, this is a super cool venue that’s worth a visit. 
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TAXX

Get ready for lots of house music and napkin throwing (the Chinese version of “making it rain”). TAXX is the highest grossing club in Shanghai, and it's also one of the biggest. It has a cool, industrial vibe and spans two floors and is owned by Shanghainese actor Zheng Kai (a high profile celeb among the younger Chinese reality TV audience). It also has a huge stage frequented by Top 100 DJs and local underground acts. 
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83 Bands

There’s a little something for everyone at this tiny club-meets-lounge (a wall separates the two, just in case anyone gets confused). One side plays slow and easy hip hop and the other plays bass-heavy hip-hop, funk, and disco. Space is at a premium, but there is a VIP section with private tables if desired. 
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44KW

Located in the French Concession, 44KW is owned by a fashion photographer from Beijing and is divided into two rooms: a front area with the bar, ping-pong tables, and lounge, and a back room with a state-of-the art sound system that'll set your whole nervous system humming. They play mostly electronica-meets-Chinese. 
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ASL

Short for Age, Sex, Location, this small club in Jing’an has an intimate feel. The crowd tends to be on the younger side and has an international vibe. Private tables here are exorbitantly expensive, so don’t waste your money. 
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Le Baron

A Paris-based nightclub chain that also has locations in London, New York, and Tokyo. The crowd is mixed Chinese and foreign, and tends to be people in the fashion, music, or art industries. The music is pretty standard, but some nights they feature a more avant garde guest. 
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