Aspen

Aspen is truly a small town that has it all—and then some. There’s everything you’d ever want from a charming mountain retreat when you just want to become one with nature. But it also offers all the chicness a city slicker needs, with a level of service to match. And while the winter sports are truly best in class, there’s so much more to Aspen than skiing and snowboarding in the winter and spring. During the summer, the hiking, biking, and gondola rides are also absolutely majestic. Aside from the warm and fuzzy feeling it evokes inside me, my favorite thing about Aspen may actually be it’s surprising versatility. 

So… whether you’re planning your trip in summer, winter, or any season in between, I’ve compiled a list of my very favorite places to stay, eat, shop, and play. 

Pro Tips

Drink up!
Aspen sits at an elevation of 8,000 feet, so you will definitely be feeling the effects of the altitude. After all, there’s way less oxygen up there than your body is used to! I’ve found that the only way to truly acclimate without feeling sick from the elevation is to basically drink your body weight in water before you get there. Seriously. You can skip those gimmicky little oxygen canisters that are marketed to help… just chug, chug, chug. Oh, and remember: your body metabolizes alcohol differently with less oxygen in the air, so your tolerance may be lower and you may find yourself slipping on that pesky black ice after just one drink!

Getting there
The Aspen Snowmass airport (ASE) is incredibly small and quaint (much like Aspen itself!), which makes flying in a breeze. It’s just three miles from the heart of town and only has a handful of gates and minimal security hangups. It’s a bit pricier to fly into Aspen than it is to fly into Denver, but it’s honestly so worth it. A car ride from Denver to Aspen takes about 3.5 hours, and trust me, you’d much rather use that time doing something fun. And if you’re staying at a hotel, all have free shuttles to get you back and forth.

Getting around
While there are Ubers and Lyfts in Aspen, they are scarce and take forever. I found that taxis are honestly the most reliable and efficient mode of transportation once you're in Aspen. Simply call (970) 925-TAXI and your taxi will typically be there within 5 minutes! They will also send you a text with tracking info so you can see exactly when your taxi will arrive (and stay toasty inside until they're actually there!). I was highly impressed with High Mountain Taxi Service.

Après Ski
Aspen is ALL about the après ski. What is “après ski” you ask? The direct translation from French is simply “after skiing” but in Aspen, and other ski towns around the world, it is a daily social event that has taken on a life of its own. Technically, après ski is just a gathering in the afternoon after you’re done on the slopes where you eat and drink (heavy on the drink),  but in Aspen, it really is the epicenter of the social scene because it’s the only time of the day when everyone clears the slopes and hangs in town. Though it does get busy, it is one of my personal favorite little Aspen traditions because it allows you to catch up with friends who may have been split up on different mountains all day. Don’t worry, if hitting the slopes isn’t in your wheelhouse, the best part about après ski is that you don’t actually have to ski to après ski.

Prep work
Once you arrive in Aspen, everything is more or less at your fingertips. But it’s a travel destination that requires a bit of prep work. If you plan to ski or snowboard, you’ll definitely want to book your lift tickets ahead of time (you’ll get a considerable discount versus buying on the mountain, especially for multi-day tickets). Aspen makes it super easy because you only have to buy one pass for Aspen Snowmass and you’re good to get on all four mountains. So good news for serious snow bunnies… you can start your day taking it easy on Buttermilk and end your day shredding black diamonds on Aspen Highlands. 

Hitting the slopes
No ski or snowboard gear (or just don’t want to lug it all on the plane)? No problem. Aspen makes it incredibly easy to rent your stuff. Packages start at around $18 per day for basic gear and rise to about $40 a day for the latest and greatest. Plus, you’ll get custom fitted to make sure you’re in the right equipment. 

A note on the mountain itself: Aspen is really four ski areas rolled into one. A free shuttle connects them, and your lift ticket gets you on all four, so feel free to explore! All four offer instructor lessons, in case you’re new to the sport or just need a refresh (but again, book this before you arrive). Here’s a quick breakdown, so you know which ones are best for you:

Aspen Highlands—This area is essentially one long ridge with trails dropping off on either side, and it’s one of the best places to be on a good powder day. Steeplechase and Highland Bowl are it’s most popular expert runs, and there’s one called Thunder that’s great for intermediate levels. Aspen Highlands also offers a trip to the summit of Aspen, which has spectacular views.

Aspen Mountain (aka Ajax)—Novices beware, there are no “easy” runs on this one. More than half of the runs are “advanced” or “expert,” but it offers some of the best mogul skiing, if you’re into bumps. There’s an amazing mid-mountain restaurant called Bonnie’s here, which supplies some of the very best people-watching in the world of skiing. For the truly courageous, Aspen Mountain offers snowcat skiing on the backside after especially heavy storms. 

Snowmass—While the other three ski areas are clustered close to downtown Aspen, Snowmass is down in the valley, near Snowmass Village. It’s pretty huge—you could spend your entire trip skiing or snowboarding here and never cover the same ground twice. It has a good mix of beginning, intermediate, and expert runs and also has an ice rink.

Buttermilk—The best bet for beginners. It’s definitely the most low-key of all four areas, and has only a handful of expert runs. Definitely a slower pace (literally and figuratively) than the others. 

The best part? Once the snow and ice melts, typically starting in June, all the mountains reveal breathtaking trails for hiking and biking, and create lakes for a variety of water activities from white water rafting to flyfishing! Summer in Aspen is a favorite for those in the know… and now you know. 

Where to Stay

Aspen attracts some major A-listers from around the globe, and its lodging accommodations certainly reflect that. For such a small town, there are a number of luxury hotels. Here are a few of my favorites:

St. Regis

This hotel nails the “rustic-meets-modern” vibe you can only find in Aspen. Nestled at the base of Aspen Mountain and just steps from the gondola, you can’t get any more convenient. It’s a great choice for foodies as their signature in-house Chef’s Club (a partnership with Food & Wine) brings in the country’s best up-and-coming chefs as consultants on their ever-changing menu. Be sure to get a room with a marble fireplace—it makes a huge difference. Their Remede Spa is also an amazing treat.

The Little Nell

This is the most luxurious of all Aspen lodging options. It definitely has the “see-and-be-seen” vibe down and is a great place to rub shoulders with Aspen’s finest. Their rooms have everything you could ever want—from heated marble floors and walls in the bathrooms to cozy fireplaces and exquisite mountain views. Their on-site restaurant, Element 47 is worth a visit even if you’re not staying here, and no matter what, you simply must stop in for an après ski  spiked hot cocoa at Chair 9 (it’s an Aspen rite of passage). 

Hotel Jerome

Part of the Auberge Resorts Collection, Hotel Jerome has been part of Aspen for over 120 years. Still housed in the original building (albeit with a generous expansion and interior remodel), it offers small-town charm alongside luxe details and decor. The bar here is exceptional and definitely worth a visit (or two). They offer in-house ski rentals as well!

Viceroy Snowmass

If you’re serious about your skiing and don’t mind staying about 30 minutes outside of town, the Viceroy Snowmass is your perfect retreat. You can literally ski in and out on Snowmass. The hotel itself is huge and they offer a wide range of activities to keep you busy even if skiing and snowboarding isn’t your thing. They also offer condos which can accommodate a family or larger group of friends.

The Gant

This is my favorite place to stay when I’m travelling with more than one person. Their townhouse / condo-style living options include everything from one- to four-bedroom accommodations. It’s also the only luxury condo option to offer on-premise dining / bar at Pepperjack’s Cafe. It just feels so authentically “Aspen.” 

When staying in Aspen, I prefer staying at one of the larger hotels listed above since they take a lot of the hassle out of travel. There’s no need to rent a car since they provide airport transport and a free shuttle anywhere you want to go. However, there are some incredible Airbnb options available which are certainly worth a look, especially if you’re with a very large group.

Where to Shop

When outdoor activities start to get old, it’s time for a little retail therapy. Thanks to its clientele, Aspen is also home to world-class shopping. From rustic (i.e. Kemosabe for top-quality Westernwear, boots, and hats) to runway (Prada, Gucci, and the like), Aspen is as well-known for its shopping as it is for its snow. A few of my other favorite spots to visit are:

Forty Five Ten

When global luxury meets emerging talent, you can’t go wrong. Forty Five Ten features over 400 designers across women’s, men’s, design, and beauty categories, including Prada, Celine, Dries Van Noten, and Balenciaga, just to name a few. 

Moncler

Moncler is the “it” brand when it comes to high-end mountain-wear. From fur-lined parkas to the cosiest cashmere knits, it’s ski bunny chic at it’s very finest. 

Optical Shop of Aspen

Iconic frames, individual style, and flawless vision… This store has everything you’d ever want in an optical shop. With the haute-est sunglasses for the slopes (and beyond), this place is definitely worth a stop. 

Where to Eat

Chances are, whatever you’re doing in Aspen, you’ll be working up an appetite. Here are a few of my must-dine options while you’re there. And remember, planning is everything in during the busy season in  Aspen—so book your reservations early!

Matsuhisa

Matsuhisa is located right in downtown Aspen in a 120-year old Victorian home. Despite its large size (it offers upstairs and downstairs dining, plus a sushi bar), this is one of the hottest reservations in town. I was once #219 on the waiting list (where there’s a will, there’s ALWAYS a way btw)! They have all your favorite classic Nobu Matsuhisa dishes (artichoke salad, yellowtail jalapeno, black cod lettuce wraps) but also offer exclusive specials that I highly suggest you inquire about!

Casa Tua

With locations in both Miami and Aspen, Casa Tua serves up high-end yet cozy, Nothern-Italian inspired cuisine in an art-centric atmosphere. During the summer, dine al fresco on their outdoor patio. And during the winter, their extensive Italian wine list is sure to warm you up.

Pine Creek Cookhouse

Located at the base of the Elk Mountains, this lodge-style restaurant is truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience. While you can certainly take a car to the cookhouse, many guests opt to hike along the river trail or road bike up in the summer. In the winter, cross-country skis and snow-shoes are the preferred mode of transpo (don’t worry, you’ll warm up quickly with a hot toddy!). Their locally-inspired cuisine is amazing, but don’t miss their momos—stuffed Nepalese dumplings—which are a house specialty.

Cache Cache

This old school steakhouse is everything you could possibly want in a stick-to-your-ribs meal after hitting the slopes. It’s a mainstay of Aspen, and has been open since 1987. Another destination for wine connoisseurs, they have a wide selection of wines with an emphasis on French varietals (their wine list is over 30 pages long). 

Steak No. 316

A bit more luxe than some of Aspen’s other steak options, this classic steakhouse serves up fantastic quality foods. Their side dishes are to die for (try the brussels sprouts and “loaded” twice baked potato) and their cowboy ribeye is amazing (but huge—definitely worth sharing).

Chef’s Club at the St. Regis

This luxe restaurant “pop-up” at the St. Regis is worth checking out. Much like artists contribute their artwork to global institutions, the Chef’s Club highlights over 200 different chefs from all over the world on their nightly menu and visiting chef program—from Tokyo’s Zaiyu Hasegawa to Paris’s Alain Ducasse. Many bright stars in the culinary world are featured here, so if you even remotely consider yourself a foodie, please check it out.

Jimmy’s

Jimmy’s is another Aspen institution that has been around for more than 20 years. They feature upscale American cuisine and have a bar that has a wide range of globally-inspired cocktails (they specialize in mezcal). I’ve had impeccable service every time I’ve visited, and it’s a great option for dinner or a classier lunch. 

Ajax Tavern

Legend has it that Ajax Tavern invented truffle fries. While I can’t corroborate that fact, I can tell you that I’ve eaten their truffle fries—and they are amazing. This is a favorite spot for lunch and has some of the best people-watching in Aspen as it is located right at the base of Aspen/Ajax Mountain. Their mussels are delicious and their Wagyu double cheeseburger is one of my favorite burgers.

White House Tavern

A quaint little restaurant located in an old cottage owned by the Hillstone Group, so expect to find some favorites on the menu (the spinach artichoke dip, crispy chicken sandwich, and French dip are my favorites). Its wood-paneled interior and open kitchen make this the coziest space. Due to its size, they don’t take reservations, so expect a bit of a wait.

Meat & Cheese

A hybrid specialty food store and restaurant. They have (you guessed it) an amazing charcuterie platter, as well as salad and sandwich trays that are great for sharing. 

Creperie du Village

Also known as the French Alpine Bistro, this cozy-chic fondue restaurant is so much fun for a group and is kid-friendly! They have an amazing French wine list to boot.

Aspen Mountain Club

Located in The Little Nell hotel, the members-only Aspen Mountain Club is the ultimate place to unwind and enjoy a bit to eat. Their lunch buffet is amazing and the views of Elk Mountain are spectacular from every window. 

Spring Cafe

This plant-based, organic food and juice bar offers amazing healthy fare. A great option for breakfast, lunch, or a refueling snack!

Victoria+Co

An espresso and wine bar with a decidedly Aussie vibe. They offer an afternoon “gourmet grazing” menu.

Poppycocks

This is the epitome of a “good ol’ breakfast diner.” Their oatmeal chocolate chip pancakes are exactly what you need after a long night out. They don’t take reservations and there does tend to be a bit of a wait, especially on long weekends and holidays, so plan accordingly. The restaurant itself isn’t anything special—but their food certainly is.

ink! Coffee

My favorite Aspen spot for a caffeine fix. Their ice blendeds have proven to be the perfect frosty treat both in the snow and the sun.

Where to Play

Regardless of what time of year you visit, Aspen has so much to offer in terms of activities. There is truly never a dull moment in this town (check out their official events calendar here). 

Belly Up

Belly Up is a concert hall and live music venue that hosts over 300 concerts a year! Definitely worth checking their lineup in advance to see if your stay overlaps with any favorites. From deadmau5 to Steve Aoki, Lil' Wayne, and Kygo—they've all hit the stage here.

Escobar Aspen

Escobar Aspen is like fantasy land. Stashed beneath the street, descend into this underground club and get ready to leave your inhibitions at the door. Curved ceilings, flattering amber lighting, and laser lights make it easy to lose track of time here. For a more intimate experience, book a private table in advance. During the summertime, their patio bar is a great spot.

Snow Lodge

Snow Lodge is a fun outdoor day and apres ski party located right at the base of Aspen mountain with guest DJ’s that goes until about 6:30 PM (that's when the party moves inside). Owned by the same group responsible for the Surf Lodge in Montauk, they also serve up some delicious Aspen-inspired fare like seared river-caught fish, caviar potatoes, and gruyere fondue.

Chair 9

Chair 9 at The Little Nell has been recognized as one of the best apres ski lounges in town. It’s only open during ski season (early December through early April) and opens just as the lifts are closing and features DJs from 3:30 to 7:30 PM. Find a place indoors at one of the high tops, or upgrade to VIP seating (aka “private chairs”) and enjoy bottle service for up to eight guests. 

Cloud Nine Alpine Bistro

Cloud Nine Alpine Bistro is the most amazing on-mountain ski party you could ever hope to experience. This ski bar and restaurant, located in an old ski patrol shack in the middle of the Highlands Mountain run, is open during the winter months and accessible only via skiing or snowboarding (there is a snow cat that can take you down the mountain, but you have to wait about 45 minutes after each seating). Cloud Nine has two lunch seatings—one at 12:00 and one at 2:00—and you absolutely have to make a reservation in advance (at least 30 days). After the lunch service come the champagne showers and ski boot dance party. Put your order in for a $125 bottle of Veuve Clicquot. And just remember to bring a change of clothes—you’re destined to get soaked.

Caribou Club

Caribou Club is a private club, but if you have access, you should absolutely take advantage. There’s no name on the door, but you’ll know exactly where you are. It’s a great place to drop in for a glass of champagne, or to spend a quieter eventing. They tout themselves as being “quietly old-world and well-bred, like a vintage Bordeaux, but unassuming and comfortable like a Beujolais.” Pretty accurate.
There is also a private supper club for “members only” that serves delicious food in an upscale setting. My favorites include the beef tartare, hamachi on a black corn chip, rack of lamb, and vegan sundae!
BTW—while most memberships run annually, you can purchase a 1 week membership for about $500 via your hotel concierge or with Caribou directly. And beware that their coat check policy is STRICTLY enforced. Literally NO ONE is allowed to leave their coat or “outer layer” on in the club. Come prepared (and dressed accordingly) to check it at the door.

Bootsy Bellows

Much like it’s sister location in Los Angeles, Bootsy Bellows has a sophisticated lounge vibe to charming Aspen. They offer a specialized menu, state-of-the-art lighting system, and amazing music into the wee hours. The building still houses its original vintage stained glass windows—beautiful!

7908

7908 is Aspen’s first supper club. Get your fill of “elevated comfort food” at the restaurant before hitting the club (which serves up booze and bar snacks late into the night). Renowned resident DJ and Musical Director Bryan Normand (aka Kid Kamillion) makes it easy to dance the night away.

1oak

With locations in New York, LA, and Las Vegas, 1oak also hosts pop-ups in Aspen… which are totally worth a trip if you’re looking for a nightclub and your itineraries overlap!