Amsterdam

Amsterdam is truly one of the most surprising cities—in the best possible way. Even if you haven’t been there before, you’d have to be living under a rock not to have heard the hype about the coffee shops (read: legal weed and mushrooms) and the red light district (read: legal prostitution and sex shows). And yes, that’s all technically true. But Amsterdam is so much more than the sum of its parts. It is truly one of the most charming and picturesque cities I’ve ever visited. The city is literally pristine and packed to the brim with charm (which is so not what I expected). Not to mention, the Dutch are some of the nicest people on the planet.

It’s a fact: in my travel “Book of Bests,” Amsterdam definitely tops the list as one of the happiest places on earth. Read on to find out why.

Pro Tips

Hoofing it
Amsterdam is one of the most walkable cities in the world. And trust me, you’re going to want to go by foot to soak in every inch of the culture so bring comfy shoes (leave the heels at home). From floating houses to crooked houses and secret gardens, there are a million and one hidden treasures that you’d probably otherwise miss if not on foot. And most everything in the city is at most a mere 30 minute walk away.

Amsterdam is also super easy to navigate if you remember a few key layout rules:

Amsterdam map

The horseshoe
Amsterdam’s city center is wrapped around its famous horseshoe-shaped canals. Just remember that the Central Station is the northernmost landmark and street names often change when you cross the water.

East to West
Another trick to remember is that the first part of the horseshoe canal system to be built was the western part. That means that lower numbered addresses are westwards and higher numbered addresses are eastwards. Easy, right?

Alphabetic street names
Yes, really. All the city street names are sequenced in alphabetical order from the inner ring (nearest the central station) to the outer ring. Every street name ends in “gracht,” which translates into English as “canal,” and a lot of streets look the same, so this is a super useful tool.

9292

If all else fails
Leave it to the Dutch to think of everything. They created a super handy door-to-door public transit app called 9292. Punch in an address or postal code and the app will calculate walking distance, public transport directions, and guide you step by step. 

Keep your head on a swivel
No, I’m not talking about the crime rate (in fact, Amsterdam is one of the safest cities in the world!), but be sure to look around before crossing the street. Locals use bikes as their primary mode of transportation, and they come flying in all directions! Like mama always said, “Look both ways, honey!”

Silence is golden
One of the first things I noticed about Amsterdam is that it is eerily quiet. And trust me… loud, boisterous Americans stick out like a sore thumb. And while the Dutch are super quirky in humor (more on that later), there is seriously barely a murmur whether you’re at the most popular restaurant or the busiest park. So keep your voice low unless you want to scream “tourist.”

Money matters
When it comes to buying things in Amsterdam, make sure you have cash on you. A lot of machines don’t have chip readers, which can be problematic for some cards. Oh, and keep in mind that Dutch people don’t ever tip at restaurants or cafes. At nicer restaurants you can tip 5-10% if the service is stellar, but it’s not an expectation.

Where to Stay

Forget the hostels you heard about in college, Amsterdam is a place you want to splurge on a hotel if it’s within your means. One factor to consider is that Amsterdam is a super diverse city, so be sure to do a little research and pick a hotel in a neighborhood that suits your taste. Here are a few of my faves:

 

Hotel de L’Europe

This is the quintessential luxury Amsterdam hotel. And if you have the means to splurge on your price tag, this hotel is worth it. Located right on the canal and home to Bord’eau, a Michelin starred restaurant.

SoHo House Amsterdam

Membership has its perks, and if you’re part of SoHo House, this hotel is not to be missed. It’s a little unassuming from the outside, but inside it has amazing original Art Deco details with luxe modern flair. Their in-house restaurant, Cecconi’s, makes amazing Northern Italian-inspired handmade pasta and seafood dishes. 

Conservatorium Hotel

This is hands down one of the most beautiful hotels in Amsterdam. It has historical roots as the original site of the Sweelinck Music Conservatorium and is refurbished in gorgeously modern Dutch design. It’s located right near the Van Gogh Museum with super spacious rooms.

Waldorf Astoria Amsterdam

The Waldorf Astoria is actually a collection of six amazing 17th century canal palaces located on the Herengracht. It’s historically Dutch in style with all the trappings of classic luxury (not to mention, a personal Concierge is assigned to each guest—not too shabby!).

What to Do

You could get lost (both physically and literally) just walking the streets of Amsterdam all day. But I always find it helpful to go in with an itinerary, especially when visiting a new city. Sometimes you’ve just gotta be a tourist… so here’s my list of not-to-be-missed Amsterdam attractions:

Ironically, there are no tulip fields in Amsterdam, even though Holland is synonymous with them. The good news is that they are located just a little over 20 miles outside the city, and there are about a million different tours that can take you there. Official Tulip Season (yes, it’s a thing) runs from the end of March until mid-May, but the flowers are usually at their best halfway through April. Make sure you camera and / or iPhone is charged… this is some seriously ‘grammable content that’ll make your friends swoon. 
“Amsterdamse Bos” literally translates to “Amsterdam Forest” in English, which is super appropriate. This “park” is three times the size of NYC’s Central Park and entirely man-made. You can do everything from taking a hike in the woods, to sailing, to cuddling goats. Every year, over 250 events take place here, so be sure to check their calendar to see if your stay overlaps with any good ones.
This is the actual last house of famous painter Rembrant and his family, and another must-see on your itinerary. Not only will you see his most famous works (260 of his 290 known etchings are housed here). It’s also in a cute, hipster neighborhood called Sint Anthonisbreestraat which has tons of great shops, cafes, and bars.
Another “touristy” one, but this is SO MUCH FUN. Especially even if you remotely like beer! It’s a 90-minute self-guided tour, so you can spend as much time as you’d like getting into Heineken’s history. Or, if you’re like me, just read a few snippets and fast forward to the beers at the end (trust me, you’ve never tasted Heineken like this). And the views of the city are incredible to boot.
Visit the childhood home where Jewish wartime diarist Anne Frank and her family hid from Nazi persecution during World War II. Space is extremely limited so make sure to pre-book your tickets online. Though somber, this humbling experience is something I absolutely recommend you do while in Amsterdam. Note, Cafe Winkel 43 is located just a few blocks away, so you can always pep yourself back up with the best dutch apple pie in town afterwards.
Yes, it’s touristy. But you 100% have to do it. This is the place where you’ll see up close, live, and personal all of Van Gogh’s most famous works, like “Sunflowers,” “Bedroom in Aries” “Starry Night,” and “Irises.” It’s quintessentially Amsterdam and a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Get out there

The Dutch are a super quirky bunch, even though they come across as a little reserved at first glance. They basically specialize in off-the-cuff experiences that are a little out there, and you’ll undoubtedly encounter a few. If you have some extra hours to spare, check out the Pancake Boat, a 75-minute tour of the docklands and harbors with (obvi) unlimited pancakes. For all my feline-loving fans out there, you’ll want to hit up De Poezenboot (the “cat boat”), a floating cat sanctuary that’s been keeping paws dry since 1968. 

Where to Eat

Ok, I’ll admit it. Amsterdam doesn’t top my globe-trotting list as the best food ever. But it’s really not as bland and tasteless as some might say. In fact, I’ve had some incredibly delicious meals here. And the best part is that it’s all generally pretty light fare so you can skip the food coma and soak in the city. Not to mention, it leaves more room for all the delicious snacks and sweet bites the city has to offer (which I kind of think are the very best part... But more on that later). Here are some of my favorite spots:

 

The Duchess

Located in the Centrum neighborhood in the historic W Hotel, The Dutchess is technically a “hotel restaurant,” but honestly, this gem is in a class of its own. It’s “nouveau nicoise” menu makes it one of the nicest restaurants in the city. Even if you’re not settling in for a full meal, grab a cocktail in their lavish bar or make a reservation for The Tea Room (with delectable pastries that look straight out of Marie Antoinette). 

The Pancake Bakery

You cannot visit Amsterdam without trying their famous pancakes, and they are totally different than the pancakes you may have at home… think THIN and crepe-like. This fuss-free pancake house is located on the canal side and is consistently packed—for good reason. You have to try their customizable poffertjes (pronounced “POFF-ert-jez”), or quarter-sized flapjacks, and their gigantic Dutch pancakes are heaven on a plate. Not only do they have the classic sweet varieties, but be sure to check their savory, pizza-inspired flavors if you’re feeling in the mood. Insider tip: visit on off-meal hours for more manageable lines.

Restaurant Jansz

As their website says, Restaurant Jansz serves up “beautifully crafted modern classics with an easy-going Dutch attitude.” From the food to the ambiance, this place definitely warrants a stop in for a meal (or just dessert). The plates are smaller in size, but decidedly un-fussy (the tuna tartare was my favorite!). Make sure you save room for dessert and treat your tastebuds to the New York-style cheesecake with with pistachio sorbet and red pepper.

Maris Piper Brasserie

Welcome to Amsterdam’s haute dining at its very best. This gorgeously designed self-proclaimed “luxury brassie” serves up classic Dutch delicacies like razor clams and smoked eel alongside American staples like roast chicken and fresh fish. Looking for a romantic night out with your beau? Book a table for two in The Conservatory. And head to dinner with time to spare so you can explore the charming De Pijp neighborhood. 

De Silveren Spiegel

Translated as “The Silver Mirror, this is about as high-end as Amsterdam dining gets. But you wouldn’t know it from the outside (which kind of adds to the charm, right?). Located in a precariously crooked building that dates back to the 17th century, it’s positively fairytale-esque. During the summer, try to snag a dining spot on their terrace. Most ingredients in their modern menu items are locally sourced and the plates are as gorgeous as they are delicious. You’ll want to savor every minute. 

Moeders

The name means “mothers,” and as soon as you step foot inside, you’ll know why. Individually framed photographs of mothers of customers past and present are literally everywhere—above the door, behind the bar, even in the bathroom. The menu consists of traditional  Dutch comfort food. Home cooked fare like stamppot (potato and vegetable mash) with sauerkraut and hachee (beef and onion stew) will have you in the clean plate club (mama would be so proud).

De Kas

“Picked in the morning, served in the afternoon” pretty much sums it up. This is about as fresh as it gets. They specialize in “from plant to plate” fare, and most ingredients are picked in their very own garden (otherwise, sourced from local farmers). Everything is organic and sustainably sourced. The menu changes from week to week based on what’s in peak-season, and while there’s a little meat, veggies definitely play the starring role. 

Bakers and Roasters

Located in the lovely De Pijp neighborhood, this is one of my favorites for breakfast and lunch dining (it’s also pretty kid friendly). Their super diverse menu features influences from all over the world, from Huevos Rancheros to out-of-this-world French-inspired pastries. Owned by a Brazilian and a New Zealander, you’ll obsess over the food and the bright, charming interior. Visiting here is a no-brainer. The hard part is just choosing what to order. 

Snacks (and other light bites)

While it’s definitely worth it to splurge on a few top-tier culinary experiences while in Amsterdam, you absolutely cannot overlook the amazing snacks, sweets, and super casual options. Amsterdam is a city where grazing is encouraged, so leave room for spontaneity. Here are a few of my favorite places to grab a quick bite:

Farmers Market on Noordermarkt

Open on Saturdays between 9 AM and 3 PM, this is one of Amsterdam’s best-kept tourist secrets. Located in the Jordaan neighborhood, it should be your go-to spot for fresh, local fare like cheese (obvi), homemade pastries, and (you guessed it) pancakes. The square is lined by a ton of cute cafes and restaurants, so you can enjoy a pint of Heineken after you’ve shopped (and eaten) to your heart’s content.

Lanskroon

Two words: giant stroopwafel (FYI, it’s not an American “waffle,” but more of a thin, vanilla-scented, chewy cookie with a gooey caramel filling). This bakery and tea room is as adorable as it is delicious. And if you’re anything like me, it’s the perfect cure for your sweet tooth.

Van Stapele

A quaint bakery specializing in fresh and warm Valrhona dark chocolate cookies with a melted white chocolate interior. Yep, they’re as gooey and delicious as they sound. But don’t go too late in the day… they’re usually sold out by 4PM.

Sampurna

As the late Anthony Bordain aptly put it, “If you can’t go to Indonesia, go to Amsterdam.” And this (in my humble opinion) is the best of the best.

Cobra Cafe

Go for breakfast and poffertjes. This is the best cure for a late night and / or hangover. Grab a table on the terrace and soak in the sun (weather permitting). 

Cafe Winkel 43

OMG. THE BEST APPLE PIE EVER. So good, I went three times in two days… Plus, it’s open late (which is rare for Amsterdam).

De Vier Pilaren

Probably a no-brainer, but this place serves up some of the the best dutch pancakes in the city. There are so many options available, but I like to keep it simple with butter and “stroop” (Dutch syrup, made from boiling down fruit which is most commonly apple or pear). Make sure you try their poffertjes too! And take it from someone who learned the hard way, the 6 piece goes down surprisingly easy and will leave you dreaming for more… go with the 12 piece, especially if you are sharing.

Other snack items to try:
• Bitterballen (Dutch meatballs)
• Friet Speciaal (Dutch French fries)
• Tompouce (a Neopolitan-esque pastry… Hema has the BEST!)

 

Where to Play

Pllek

This super trendy beach bar is located on the “noord” (north) side of Amsterdam. It’s built out of old shipping containers and has an industrial vibe with corrugated metal walls, a fireplace, and bright artwork. You can honestly spend an entire day (or night… it’s open until 1AM) here. They have a great selection of beer and wine, and offer simple, food crafted with organic seasonal ingredients. Pleek also hosts a ton of events—from live music to yoga gatherings—so check to see what overlaps with your stay. Just hop on the free ferry from Central Station (it’s about a 15 minute ride). 

Hiding in Plain Sight

This super trendy restaurant puts the literal “hip” in “hipster.” Also known as HPS (as the locals call it), this spot undoubtedly mixes up some of the best cocktails in the city (just try not to roll your eyes at the waiters in vests with handlebar mustaches). It’s also a hangout for local musicians, so check their calendar in advance to see if anyone is playing while you’re in town. 

Apt

This Hollywood-esque “American-style” bar is a crowning gem of the newly restored Odeon building, which has been part of the central canal landscape since 1662. The bar has a bit of a split personality disorder (in a good way!). Before dinner, it’s a classy cocktail bar with a Gatsby-era Art Deco vibe. After dinner, the late-night party scene is in full effect (a rarity for Amsterdam). Check out the cocktail “laboratory” in the back, where bartenders mix up craft cocktails under an operation lamp. 

The “other side” of Amsterdam

Outside of the Red Light district, most places in Amsterdam aren’t open crazy late (typical time is midnight or 1:00 AM). So you probably won’t be partying until the wee hours, and “clubs” aren’t really a thing here. 

However, some of Amsterdam’s “other” activities are a great way to spend an evening, if you’re over 18 (and so inclined)...

Cannabis is undoubtedly part of the Amsterdam tourist culture, and if you’re over 18, you’re more than likely going to want to see what all the fuss is about. Here are some tips on how to be smart about enjoying your (legal!) high. 

You’ll get way more than a caffeine buzz at Amsterdam’s coffee shops. It’s hard to walk a block without seeing at least one (there are over 200 within city limits). In addition to pre-rolled spliffs (which by the way, contain tobacco), they also have a wide assortment of edibles. Here are a few of the classier coffee shops that I think are worth a visit:

 

The Dampkring


If you’re in search of a truly “authentic” Amsterdam coffee shop experience, definitely hit up The Dampkring. As well as having great drinks, their cannabis strains are amazing. The staff is super welcoming, which is ideal for first-timers. It’s also world-famous thanks to the crew from Ocean’s 12, who spent time here while shooting.

Insider tip: In addition to coffee shops, you’ll also come across places called “smart shops.” These places sell some of the safest psilocybin dosing (hallucinogenic mushrooms). Since their “truffles” are processed mushrooms, not the raw variety, their dosing is very precise. If you’re new to mushrooms, it’s a good idea to avoid drinking earlier in the day before trying them.

Gray Area

A favorite for locals and visiting celebrities alike, this small, unassuming coffee shop is a favorite for a reason. Not only are their cannabis products amazing, but their personalized service is the best. The atmosphere isn’t luxe, but it’s super chill and a great place to stop into.

Amnesia

It may be situated off the main tourist routes, but it is definitely worth the trip. This is one of the nicest coffee shops in the city, and thanks to its scenic location, tends to be a bit calmer than other venues. This is a local favorite, thanks to their atmosphere and seriously yummy bites (you know, just in case you get the muchies).

Insider tip: In addition to coffee shops, you’ll also come across places called “smart shops.” These places sell some of the safest psilocybin dosing (hallucinogenic mushrooms). Since their “truffles” are younger processed mushrooms, not the fully grown raw variety, their dosing is more precise. It’s generally a good idea to avoid drinking earlier in the day before trying them.