Capri

Get ready to say ciao to one of the most magical places on earth. Meet Capri. This small island just off the Sorrento peninsula of southern Italy is effusive in its jaw-dropping natural beauty, breathtaking views, clear blue water, and absolutely delicious food (and let’s not forget about the wine!). And as if this town needed to make it any harder to leave, the people of Capri are warm, vibrant, and infinitely stylish. There truly couldn’t be more to fall in love with. 

Capri is rich (and famous) in history. Some say that the legendary Greek hero Odysseus resisted the seductive song of the Sirens here. It’s where the hedonistic Roman emperor Tiberius retired and caroused at Villa Jovis. The famous Chilean poet Pablo Neruda was exiled here. Jacqueline Kennedy even made a famous yacht stop here, after which she brought “capri” pants back to the US.

Capri is absolutely a destination worthy of a trip on its own, but you simply cannot visit Italy without factoring in some time to visit this little slice of heaven. It’s a sun-soaked destination for the rich and famous for good reason—just ask the celebrities with their yachts moored in Marina Grande. The only hard part is booking your flight back home. 

Read on to explore my best-of recs for this island that truly has it all (and then some).

Pro Tips

Getting there
The easiest way to get to Capri (unless you’re on a private plane, helicopter, or yacht, of course) is to fly through Naples. You may consider spending one night in Naples to get a little more adjusted to the time change. From there, have a hotel concierge arrange for a car to take you to the Port of Naples to board the high speed ferry (which includes a luggage porter and transportation on the other side). The ferry ride takes approximately 40 minutes, and the water is surprisingly choppy. If you’re prone to seasickness (or just looking for a more luxe mode of travel), consider splurging on a private speedboat—it will get  you there much quicker, for about $2,000 US (in my opinion, it’s worth the investment if it’s within your means).

Island life
It may seem obvious, but when booking your trip to Capri, keep in mind that it is an island (aka totally surrounded by water). So while hopping around to other Amalfi islands is totally possible,  it takes a bit of planning. If you have the time, I definitely recommend squeezing in a day trip trip to Positano or Ravello, but this will be the one part of your itinerary you’ll want (and need) to plan out. Your hotel concierge will be able to help coordinate your transportation (ferry, speedboat, yacht, etc), or you can plan this as part of your trip ahead of time. 

Walk the walk
One thing that surprised me about Capri was all the walking. It seems like almost everything is an uphill endurance hike (so bring footwear to match). The moment you start huffing and puffing, chances are you’ll be passed by an elderly Capri resident—dressed to the nines, no less (just another testament to Europeans being way healthier than Americans!). The roads are also super narrow… so be prepared for a harrowing car ride up the mountain from the port. The food in Capri is so decadent and delicious, but with all the walking, you can definitely eat with abandon (every time I’ve visited, I’ve eaten so much and still managed to lose weight… win!).

Two sides of Capri
Not only are there literally two sides of Capri (The Marina Grande and Anacapri, but more on that later), but visitors also clearly fall into one of two categories. One is the day-tripping tourists taking advantage of the island’s closeness to Naples, Sorrento, and the Amalfi coast (without the high price tag), who come in the morning and leave at sunset. The other is the jetsetting rich and famous, from Queen Bey and Jay-Z to Kobe Bryant (And all your favorite Hollywood A-listers). Many of the latter keep their own private residences, but it’s not unusual to catch a celeb sighting here. So if you plan to visit Capri, spend at least two or three nights there to fully soak in everything it has to offer.

Where to Stay

Capri is a great destination to consider staying in an Airbnb, especially if your travel group is on the larger side. There are some incredible Italian villas for rent, and this can actually be a much more cost-effective option. Even if you’re just traveling with one or two others, you can find some great bungalows and apartments in great locations. 

In terms of hotels, here are a few of my very favorites:

Capri Tiberio Palace Hotel

A friendly, boutique 5-star hotel is located just steps from the main piazza. They have a great pool scene and gorgeous terrace with amazing views (hello, cocktail hour!), as well as a fabulous spa. 

JK Place Capri

An absolutely gorgeous hotel with stunning seaside views. The only downside is its location (you’ll need a cab to get to the Piazzetta). But what it lacks in walkability, it definitely makes up for in elegance and modern Italian sophistication. Even if you don’t stay here, their Lounge is worth a trip for a change of scenery.

Grand Hotel Quisisana

This place puts the “grand” in “Grand Hotel Quisisana.” It’s literally impossible to miss its stately entrance, located just steps from the central Piazzetta. This iconic five-star hotel has been a favorite of Capri’s elite visitors since it opened in 1845. It is literally dripping in classic Italian charm—from the gilded mirrors to the shimmering chandeliers and the polished marble floors. Even if you don’t stay here, their gorgeous bar is certainly worth a trip for an Aperol Spritz or Negroni (and of course, people watching).

Where to Eat

La Fontelina Beach Club

Located in a tiny corner of Capri, this spot is not-to-be-missed. It’s a bit of a trek down to the water (and an even tougher one back up!), but I managed to get there in sandals. This is a perfect spot for a leisurely lunch, especially if you love seafood. Reservations are required, and restaurant guests can also reserve space on the beach for an additional €30 per person. 

Il Riccio

Located in Anacapri, this Michelin-starred restaurant is one of my favorites. If you’re splurging on a boat day, get the most bang out of your buck and do the blue and green grotto tour and Il Riccio together (they’re in the same vicinity). Their menu has incredible classic Italian options using the freshest seafood, but my favorite is actually the cheese ravioli. I know, I’m usually not such a simple gal, but this dish brings me back to my childhood, only now it’s handmade with the freshest and most flavorful ingredients! Oh, and make sure you save room for their coveted dessert room... yes, a whole ROOM filled with decadent sweet treats. It really is what dreams are made of, well, mine at least!

Lo Scoglio delle Sirene

This restaurant is worth a trip for the view alone! Overlooking the old town on Gallipoli, the terrace has an incredible view of the entire Bay of Naples. The fare is “traditional Capri” to a tee, with a focus on fresh-caught seafood and simple ingredients. The linguine with clams and mussels is a top menu item.

Restaurant Le Grotelle

This small, unassuming restaurant is a perfect pick for lunch or an early-ish dinner. Earn your meal with a hike up the Tragara Point Coastal walk, or walk from the Piazzetta. The restaurant is situated in caves carved into the rock, and offers gorgeous panoramic views of the famous Arco Naturale, Punta Campanella, the Amalfi Coast, and on clear days, even further. The food is definitely decent (nothing to write home about), but the views are out of this world. 

Aurora

Simple, homemade Italian food at its very best. Aurora invented the (self-proclaimed) “water pizza,” which is light as air with a taste that can never be replicated. The restaurant has a lively metro vibe, which can be a needed break from quiet, Italian-style meals. The waiters have been known to break out in song at the end of the night… just saying.

Da Giorgio

This homey restaurant serves up some of the very best seafood in Capri ( do not miss their traditional Neapolitan pizza). Located in a hotel (which is not much to look at) this restaurant is a quaint respite and the perfect place for a romantic dinner for two. Located right in the center Piazzetta, but definitely not a “tourist trap.”

Da Paolino

Capri is famous for its lemons, and this restaurant definitely celebrates the fact! It’s such a unique dining experience to eat under the canopy of 130 lemon trees (talk about a ‘gramable backdrop!). It’s a fun and lively atmosphere and truly makes you feel like you’re in Italy. Their off-menu Sausage Fume pasta is one of my favorites. Just be sure to save room for their lemon-centric desserts!

La Conca del Sogno

Located in Nerano (part of Naples mainland), the restaurant is about a 50 minute ferry or private boat ride away. Their Nerrano pasta (spaghetti with fried zucchini) is THE DISH to try. Capri is a pretty small island, so if you’re there for a longer amount of time, this is the perfect spot to go to get “off campus.”

Gelateria Buonocore

If you get lost trying to find Gelateria Buonocore, just follow the scent of freshly made waffle cones. This is the best gelato on the island, and their super thin cones are absolutely dreamy. Every flavor of gelato is delicious, but make sure to try the special Fantasi di Capri flavor. Grab your cone and stroll around the Piazza… there’s nothing better.
 

Literally, everywhere: Did I mention that Capri is famous for their lemons? Every restaurant offers a special digestif called Limoncello, which is amazing. It’s bright yellow, equal parts sweet and tart, and served in small glasses. They say it helps with digestion, so enjoy and drink up! 

What to Do

Home of the aforementioned La Fontelina restaurant, this beach club is an amazing place to spend an afternoon. Grab yourself a spot amidst the troves of uber-tanned bodies and listen to the sound of the waves. It has a stunning view of the Faraglioni outcrops (the two huge stones jutting out of the sea). This place also gets an A+ in terms of people watching. Just don’t forget the SPF.

Green and Blue Grotto Tours

Take a boat to the famed blue and / or green grottos—it’s an absolute must, and a Capri tourist rite of passage. You have truly never seen water this color before. It’s created by sunlight filtering through an underwater channel and reflecting through the grotto’s water, but however it happens, it’s pure magic. 

Visit Anacapri

Capri is a rocky, steep island. When you arrive by boat at Marina Grande, a funniclear (or rented car) will traverse you up to Capri town. But on the other, even higher side of the island is Anacapri. To be honest, there’s not a ton to do in Anacapri (another funniclear ride away), but it’s a great place to spend the day. There’s a ton of places to buy cheaper, touristy items, and it’s also home to the Villa San Michelle, which offers panoramic views of not only Capri and its harbor, but the entire Sorrentine Peninsula and Mount Vesuvius as well. 

Boat to other islands

Location, location, location. Capri is amazing in its own right (and trust me, you’ll never want to leave), but another amazing aspect of the island is its proximity to other destinations, which makes it an ideal daytripping destination. Positano, Sorrento, and Nerano are just a few of the nearby destinations. And the best part you’ll still be back in time for dinner in the Piazzetta!

Relax and Enjoy

While I’m usually a big planner when it comes to trips (my itineraries are pretty legendary), Capri is one of the few cities that I love to visit without any real set plans. It has such a laid back atmosphere and there is so much beauty and culture to soak in. I love to wake up in the morning and just see where the day takes me. Whether it’s the Tragara Point Coastal walk or a leisurely afternoon sipping Campari in the Piazzetta, there are truly no “bad” options.  It may not sound like the most exciting activity, but honestly, one of my very favorite things to do in Capri is just to stroll around the Piazzetta, stopping for shopping, snacks, and of course, refreshments. 

Where to Shop

From LV to Gucci to Prada, Capri is synonymous with luxury retail. In the last few years, every high-end brand (and then some) have set up shop near Via Camerelle. Although fewer and farther between, some stores continue to specialize in amazingly good quality local goods. In Capri town, Candora (Via Camerelle 3) and Da Costanzo (Via Roma 49) still make some of the most gorgeous hand-tooled leather sandals, which Capri is known for. On the Piazzetta, La Parisienne sells clothes that are made on the island (Jacqueline Onassis had her infamous capri pants made there). I also love Autori Capresi for crisp and chic linen clothing, stylish hats, and leather sandals. Whatever your speed, just make sure you bring some spending money along, because trust me, you will want to shop in Capri.

Where to Play

While Capri is an incredibly vibrant town in the sense that dinners run late, there isn’t really a club or bar scene to speak of. And honestly, when I’m in Capri, that’s the last thing I’d want, anyway. I’d much prefer to cap my evenings with a drink in the center courtyard of Quisisana. If you are looking to add a bit more “life” to your nightlife, check out VV Club or Taverna Anema e Core (that is, if your legs aren’t too sore from all the walking!). Otherwise, enjoy a nightcap or a cappuccino in the Piazzetta and get your fill of people watching.